Unlike gorpcore or quiet luxury, layering is a styling technique that doesn’t require a fashion degree or hours spent scouring social media to understand. (The clue's in the name.) It’s quick and practical: just put a piece of clothing over another and, hey presto, you’re done! Except, 'layering' is more than just layering, ya know? It's an art form.

Upon first glance, it looks like something that anyone can conquer – ‘I could splatter some paint on a white canvas!’ etc. – but there are unspoken rules to the practice. You have to consider textures, lengths, silhouettes, shades... And then there’s volume. How many layers is too many layers? How many is too few? Remember when Joey Tribbiani wore all of Chandler Bing's clothes? Well, the layering sweet spot is somewhere between that and one single piece of clothing. But fear not, our roadmap to said sweet spot is right here.

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When is the right time to layer?

Well, anytime really. The beauty of layering is that it can be done at all times of the year; in winter, it’ll stop that seasonal chill from penetrating your bones and in summer, lighter layers guard against chilly evenings and random bouts of rain.

And it's not like layering can't be smart, either. In truth, a shirt, suit and tie is a simplistic (and near perfect) form of layering, and illustrates how patterns, colours and textures can compliment (or clash). In fact, one of the surest ways to nail the layering look is by topping a suit and tie off with a suitable overcoat; maybe squeeze a little scarf in there, too. A classic navy overcoat over a navy or charcoal suit, for example. (Just make sure the coat is roomy enough – you don't want to be bulging.)

Layering is also great for making something out of nothing. If your wardrobe isn’t striking much inspiration, try pairing two unlikely items and see how it goes. The interplay of incongruous cuts and colours can create a whole new vibe.

The point, ultimately, is that layering makes your outfit more interesting, and in many cases, more flattering. A summer shirt is a summer shirt. But wear a vest underneath and an unstructured blazer over the top and you've got a whole new energy.

Layering Rules

1.Start Light and Get Thicker

The textures of your clothes play an important part in layering, as they’ll add to the dimension of your outfit. And while no material is off limits, it’s worth sticking to this order. Start with a light fabric, like cotton or silk, and layer denser textiles on top. You wouldn’t layer a denim shirt underneath a linen jacket – it just wouldn’t look right. (Unless the denim was suuuuuper soft.)

For obvious reasons, it also helps to build your base from pieces that are naturally more fitted, and then go for looser styles as you layer up. They needn’t be oversized, just slightly baggier than the piece below for it to be comfy as well as proportionally correct.

2. Consider The Colour Wheel

This goes for all styling, generally, but make sure your layers are complimentary in colour. The best way to do that is to consult the famous colour wheel – shades directly opposite one another will look good together, while those next to one another will clash.

Tonal layering is a surprisingly powerful styling tool, too. The whole beige thing is big (if a little played out), but a layered look of similar pastels, or black or even blue denim, can look great. Jeremy Strong is famously wedded to the colour brown, and consequently, very adept at earth-tone layering. Try that.

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3. Know When To Stop

There is such a thing as too many layers (need I remind you of the aforementioned Friends reference). To avoid that bulky silhouette, it's a good idea to keep to a maximum of three/four layers. Remember that Adrien Brody outfit from Succession? His four layer look was lauded for its off-duty-oligarchness, but it was on the cusp – a fifth layer would have been too much.

4. Your Skin Can Be a Layer

We live an era of so-called 'slutty' menswear, and, joyfully, exhibitionism and pride in ones own form have rarely been as prevalent in mainstream menswear, so use what you got and let your body be the base of a great look. Shawn Mendes is a big champion of the crop top, for example, and they can look great underneath an open shirt, or even with a more formal look.

5. Play With Proportion

It makes sense for each layer to outsize the last, and that's a solid way to explore the trend. But it's not the only way to do it. Consider the singular work of American designer Rick Owens, which regularly features super cropped jackets worn over longline tees. Being an acolyte of Owens is more a fashion state-of-mind than a simple way of dressing, but that doesn't mean you can't knick the trick for yourself.

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Layering Essentials

White T-shirt

The classic white tee is more than just a wardrobe staple, it’s a wardrobe definer. (Just look at all the recent fuss around Carmy's heavyweight tee in The Bear.) We already have an extensive guide on how to find the perfect style, but an easy rule to remember is that it should skim, not cling the torso and finish around the middle of your fly.

TOM FORD Slim-Fit Cotton-Blend Jersey T-Shirt

CDLP Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt

SUNSPEL Riviera Supima Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt

Vest

This is slightly bolder alternative to a white tee, which requires a little more unbuttoning to even be seen. Something with a woven or even sheer finish will allow for more texture in your look, plus it's a little lighter than a tee so better for warmer weather. Anything that gets you closer to Tony Soprano is fine by us.

VUORI Strato Tech sleeveless stretch-jersey tank top

CDLP Lyocell and Pima Cotton-Blend Jersey Tank Top

SUNSPEL Riviera Cotton-Mesh Tank Top

Regular Fit Shirt

The key, here, is to think of the shirt as a potential filling in a well layered sandwich, or better yet, the a final flourish, so, crucially, it needs to be fairly thin gauge to allow for maximum layerage. The idea is that it adds a pop of colour, or texture, or both, so opt for something with an at least vaguely interesting vibe. A print, for example, or maybe a tattered, timeworn denim.

Mr P. Stella Camp-Collar Printed Cotton-Poplin Shirt

The Row Sisco striped silk shirt

PAUL SMITH Artist Stripe patterned regular-fit cotton-poplin shirt

Lightweight Gilet

The ultimate – ultimate – mid layer is a lightweight gilet. Not as stuffy as a waistcoat and not as puffy as a winter gilet (which should never be a mid layer, FYI), the functional, workwear-skewed lightweight gilet can smarten up a low-key look, or soften something that feels too smart. 'Functional' stuff and militaria – field jackets, overshirts etc. – are great layering pieces, in general.

UNIQLO Ultra Light Down Compact Vest

South2 West 8 Tenkara Nylon Vest

C.P. COMPANY Logo-Appliquéd Shell and Mesh Gilet

Denim Jacket

On first consideration, the durable and hardly malleable nature of denim means that you might be put off from including it in your layering rotation. But think again, because having a denim jacket pocking out from underneath your overcoat adds some texture and dimension to your look – and if you’re in the market for a black iteration, choose one of our favourites here.

RANDY'S GARMENTS Corduroy-Trimmed Denim Jacket

Drake's Bleach Wash Selvedge Denim Five-Pocket Chore Jacket

A.P.C Denim Jacket

Roomy Overcoat

The overcoat is the perfect finish to a layered look, and it needn't be reserved for winter. Sure, a white tee, with a sleeveless knit and mid-wash jeans would look great under huge, raglan sleeve wool coat or classic trench. But you could sub that knit for a gilet or shirt, and swap the heavy outerwear for something similar in shape but slighter in volume.

PIACENZA CASHMERE Checked Cotton Coat

MFPEN Installation Recycled-Ripstop Trench Coat

A.P.C. Phil Rallongé Cotton Coat

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